A few weeks ago we returned to Lower Largo. It was early February but it was one of those perfect clear blue sky mornings.
‘It will be lovely on Wednesday,’ two Kinghorners informed us earlier on in the week. How did they know that?
It was three years ago in May that my husband and I drove away from Dunfermline and along the Fife Coastal Scenic Route for the first time. I had just been handed a letter offering me redundancy from teaching 16 to 19’s and hubby had just been offered work in Fife. We were exploring not just the place but our feelings. How did we really feel about such an upheaval to relocate our life to Fife, albeit on a temporary basis?
I remember it being a bit of a grey day on that occasion and we stopped on the waterfront at Leven for me to phone a dear friend and colleague from back down south, to see how she was. It was a bit bleak, to be honest with you, and a cold wind bit through our coats. After making the call we continued the drive along the coastal route.
‘Let’s try down there,’ I said, just as we were passing one of the three signs to Lower Largo. Our pace to the sea front was tentative, reflecting the state of our minds. Soon a tiny bridge came into view, The Crusoe Hotel and the stunning backdrop of a viaduct above a stream with cottages on the bank of the river, framed betwixt the two. It was one of those perfect scenes you see in the papers.
We parked before strolling along the main street between the once fishermen’s cottages and then ambled back along the shoreline, a mixture of sand and rocks. It reminded me of Cornwall, but in a far more sleepy way. We sat on a rock and I sighed with relief. The sun was beginning to seep through the clouds and we could feel her warmth.
Hubby and I hardly spoke until we were sat facing each other waiting for our lunch at The Crusoe Hotel, a place we have visited several times since. The food is excellent and the welcome warm.
‘What do you think?’ hubby asked, looking straight at me as if he could read my very thoughts without words.
‘Well,’ I said, ‘this is lovely here. A bit like the Cornwall you dream so much of. What have we got to lose?’
‘Our family and friends.’
‘Yes, but they will still be there. We won’t be selling our home just yet. We’ll be dipping our toes in the water to see if we like it. It’s only for a year or two anyway.’
My hubby longed for me to say yes. He worried that I was being positive to please him. It was me who was holding us back, but my letter of voluntary redundancy, given just at fortuitous moment, seemed to be a nudge. ‘Go for it!’ it said. We both knew that Lower Largo was too far for my hubby to commute, but nevertheless the peace we felt at that seemed to be another sign.
Visiting Lower Largo once more, now that we have moved to Fife permanently, seems to complete the circle. It may be a bit of a cliche, but finding this wee place changed our lives. If you’d like to know more about The Fife Coastal Path and our special time in Fife then you might enjoy,